Fresh brown crab is one of my all-time favourite things to eat, although I tend to save it for special occasions, that way it remains a proper treat. Usually, I like it prepared simply. Some good toast, a spoonful of garlic mayonnaise and a glass of chilled white wine is all you need on a bright summer’s day. Later on in the autumn, I look for warmer, richer and more comforting ways to serve it. Cue this crab mac ‘n’ cheese!